There's two small hotels in Kusum, but for some odd reason they were both full, so Mr Pumpy hooked us up with Mookajee, the local tailor: first floor, view across the goat shed, plenty of room for the hammocks (never leave home with one!) and a couple of bucks for the pleasure.

After a wash in the icy cold water from the communal hand pump beside the school ("Never had a better, more refreshing wash in my life, Feely!" said Mr Pumpy) we both settled in for a short nap (see above) before the usual daal-bhat dinner, served with love and affection by Mookajee's wife, and spiced with side-dishes of humour provided by the kids.

Yeah, cycling... it's nice to retreat to your room after 8 hours of 'out there', and equally pleasant emerging into laughing, leaping, family good cheer - not to mention the food.

After dinner Mr Pumpy pulled out the maps (see below) and told the kids all about the trip, and got some straight talk, which is very good, because he never listens to me.