The ferry to Khong island.

Yeah, after the trials of the last couple of days it does look a little like paradise for a while, but after you've impressed the Swedish backpackers with tales of horror and madness, and slept in for three days running, that old let's get back on the road itch starts to work it's way under your sarong again.

By day four Mr Pumpy was looking longingly at the map and counting kilometres again.

"I might have been a little rash about the paradise thing, Feely," he said.

"Nothing to worry about, Pumpy!" I said, and we were back on the road again.